| Author | Message | ||
     Jim Bettison |
Can anyone help with advice on the Mark VI fuel gauge, particularly the tank unit, please? Background is that the unit in our car failed a few weeks back. We took it out, opened it up, and were rather dismayed by the state of corrosion that had accumulated after 50 years. Cleaned it up, but the resistive element had lost several turns at one end. Did the best we could, got it together and back, but yesterday it failed again. Hence, two questions: (a) does anyone know of a source of new or reconfitioned resistive elements? and/or (b) does anyone know what the details are of the wire used in the element? In the latter regard, it is a fine wire, apparently enamelled, and capable of being soft soldered - therefore, not nichrome. When wound on the former (which looks like bakelite; is about 1cm diameter, and has about 5cm of winding on it) the electrical resistance is around 85 ohms. Comments, please? | ||
| Martin Cutler |
Hi Jim, When I pulled mine apart, it too was a rusty mess. I put a flat plate on the tank to replace the sender unit, and use the odometer as my fuel gauge. If you do find a replacement at resonable cost, I would be interested. | ||
| Richard Treacy |
Come on, guys ! A brand new sender is available from Introcar for 95 pounds in the worst case (part number UR358). They, or others, can also supply secondhand, and repairs are also feasible, but there's nothing like having a brand new one. RT. | ||
| Richard Treacy |
Woops, that UR358 was the part for an S-Series. The correct new part is RF5410, 99 pounds from Introcar, my trusted supplier. The old one could be rewound with similar resistance wire to the original. The resistance of the sender is not critical as it is just a potentiometer giving a percentage reading of the voltage applied, not a pure resistance reading. I am sure you could use the potentiometer winding from just about any car, but remember there is the low fuel level warning lamp to consider. A visit to a wrecker's yard with your clapped out unit would no doubt be fruitful as a first try before buying a new one, but as I say there's nothing like having a brand new 'un. RT. | ||
| Richard Treacy |
Woops, that UR358 was the part for an S-Series. The correct new part is RF5410, 99 pounds from Introcar, my trusted supplier. The old one could be rewound with similar resistance wire to the original: ask your local auto electrician. The resistance of the sender is not critical as it is just a potentiometer giving a percentage reading of the voltage applied, not a pure resistance reading. I am sure you could use the potentiometer winding from just about any car, but remember there is the low fuel level warning lamp to consider. A visit to a wrecker's yard with your clapped out unit would no doubt be fruitful as a first try before buying a new one, but as I say there's nothing like having a brand new 'un. See http://www.introcar.co.uk/introcar4/retail.html and go to ELECTRICAL AND IGNITION RT. | ||
| Martin Cutler |
Hi Richard, Thanks for the info, 99 pounds is about $300, plus postage! My fix cost me nothing, so I'm still searching for the $nil swap! Swap you a Dodge 4 water pump? Marty - with Scottish heritage showing! | ||
| Bill Vatter |
A responsibility we have as custodians of these old cars is to keep them in good health, and preserve them for their historical value. When we resort to short cut repairs, we degrade our cars. As these add up over several years the car becomes unoriginal and unreliable. Eventually it is not worth fixing anymore and another car is lost. This is what happens to modern cars that become old and worn out, but we should not let it happen to an historic car. Therefore, when something breaks or wears out, it should be made right using good repair materials. If we are faithful in this, our cars will retain their value and they will have long, happy lives. Marty, no offense meant, but you should fix it right. New parts are usually (not always) the best repair. Blanking off the sending unit and watching the odometer has reduced the value of your car, and if you keep at this kind of repair work you will eventually have only a junker; certainly not a proper motor car. To illustrate my point, how many of you-all would want to buy a car that Marty has been "fixing" on for several years? | ||
| Martin Cutler |
Hi Bill, I try and not "bodge" anything, but when it comes to being able to drive my car, or have it sitting in the shed waiting for a part, I will fix it to be able to drive it. I consider a "bodge" to be irreversable, but this is mearly a "fix", whilst waiting for the replacement part to come along at the right price. My sender unit was actually corroded right through, so no chance of re-using it. Not that I would sell my car anyway, but when you look at it from that perspective, has the car lost value because I have tossed out the original factory made exhaust system and replaced it with stainless? Replacing all the original timber in the frame, which was all individually stamped with the body number will have irreversably reduced the valve of the car as well. No, I didn't restamp each piece of timber in the entire body. The original floor pan and inner rear guards where also junked, so there goes more originality and therefore more "value". No offence taken Bill, but when it comes to originality versus driveability, I will go for driveability, (if that is a word!) When a new sender pops along at the right price, I will grab it, and repair my "fix". As another example, the two straps that hold the petrol tank in where some sort of canvas webbing material. This had held moisture, and had rusted through the tank. I did not search out the same material to replace the original, I used rubber, on the pretext that it would not hold moisture. Is this damaging the originality of the car, or ensuring it lasts for my son's to use it? A very interesting topic indeed, and one that needs continuing over a beer or two Bill! Marty - my shout next time you're in Sydney | ||
| Bill Vatter |
Marty, Thanks for that offer. I will remember. I would like to continue this discussion, but it has gone past the topic of fixing fuel gauges. When I can get my thoughts together, I will initiate another discussion over the relative merits of originality, authenticity, reliability, and drivability. Also, my appologies for misinterpreting your fuel gauge "fix." I had at first understood you to mean that using your odometer was a permanent solution to a bad sending unit. Apparently you intended to fix it right all along. Sorry. | ||
| Martin Cutler |
Just one of the things on the list. Fortunately, the Bentley is the best vehicle I own at present, all the others are giving me grief. Originality vs drivability is a very interesting topic. I like to drive my cars and bikes, not participate in concours events. Any "changes" I make to aid drivability would always be reversable. | ||
| Debbie Saville |
Originality vs drivability--- Over the past couple of weeks have found this section of the site very entertaining ,better than an episode of "Days of our Lives". To each his own and while I have the utmost respect for individual points of view, I agree wholeheartedly with Martins' previous entry. I love driving our Silver Cloud, and feel its such a shame to hide these magnificent vehicles behind closed doors. As Martin said "changes" made to aid drivability, especially with todays horrendous traffic are always reversable. Thermo fans, halogen bulbs, radial tyres to name a few are all modern accessories that don't detract from the vehicle, are an aid in todays road chaos and can easily be replaced with original if need be. Anytime your on the Gold Coast Martin,pop in for a cup of tea. Regards Debbie Saville | ||
| Jim Bettison |
As the starter of this discussion, I'm absolutely fascinated where it's going ... Although we've had a hand in another long-running soap on MkVI ignition timing (Debbie, perhaps, note it?), it's quite technical and staid by comparison. In the discussion on the high ground between Bill and Marty it seems that all honour has been satisfied ... But what do we think of people who take a (rather tired) MkVI and cut it and shut it and do other things to create a "Special"? People like Alan Padgett, in UK, who has put 40 or more of these on the road, can't be ignored. Or Gavin Sandford-Morgan in Adelaide. Although what we've been doing with our MkVI is to get it in restoration to as close to the original as possible, at least as a starting point, that hasn't been a cheap exercise. In then departing from that point we've done (or are doing) things like halogen lamps, synthetic oils, proprietary (custom-mixed) coolant, screw-on oil filter element, flashing fog lamps, etc. And soon, radial ply tyres (the unused cross-ply set now on are horrible). So, we're more than a little sympathetic with both Bill and Marty. Bu at the present stage, and in the real world, we've still got a duff fuel gauge ... Anyone know the diameter of the former on which the resistive element is wound? And the length of winding on that former? Failing an answer, it looks as though we have to drain the tank and take out the unit (again) ... just means the car will be off the road a little longer ... but still cheaper and more fun than the 300 Pound Sterling new replacement - but for how much longer? Cheers Jim Bettison | ||
| Martin Cutler |
Hi Guys, Looks like we might be using our MK VI a bit more in the next couple of weeks, my wife Fran was punted in the rear in our MG Magnette yesterday, got sandwiched front & rear, so off the road for a while. No chance of any new panels, so all have to be repaired. Regarding originality, as my MK VI is one of 6 Freestone & Webb bodied cars, I am trying to retain as much originality as possible due to it's rarity. Still might put a modern radio in it soon though! | ||
| Bill Vatter |
As threatened in my comment of Oct. 5, I have initiated a conversation under TECHNICAL FORUM...MISCELANEOUS where I am inviting comments regarding the trade-off between originality and drivability. To Jim B.: Why don't you just get a used sending unit? There are several RR recyclers in the US. Looking in a price list from one supplier, he quotes $325 for a "restored" sending unit. (I assume that means as good as a new one.) This particular source is generally higher price than most, and I am sure you could do better than that. |
