| Author |
Message |
    
William H. Trovinger II
Grand Master
Username: bill_trovinger
Post Number: 128
Registered: 8-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, 28 July, 2004 - 00:50: |    |
HELP!
I went to change the bulbs for my stop/tail lamps out with LED bulbs for better visibility. Now I have no tail lamps, parking lamps or side markers. Does not matter if the old bulbs are in or the new LED ones, still nothing. Also the fuse is good. Any suggestions where I should start looking?
Regards,
Bill
’76 SS I SRE23726
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William H. Trovinger II
Grand Master
Username: bill_trovinger
Post Number: 130
Registered: 8-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, 29 July, 2004 - 11:35: | |
Update to all interested. The problem turned out to be loose connection at the fuse holder. Removed the fuse board and redid the rivets for the fuse clamps, this seems (knock on wood) to have cured the problem.
Regards,
Bill
Attempt number 11 to post.
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Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy
Post Number: 253
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, 29 July, 2004 - 16:44: | |
Do the LED stop lamps work properly with the brake lamp failure relay ? If you remove one stop lamp the warning lamp should illuminate when you press the brake pedal, but I am unsure whether LEDs will be compatible. |
James Aitken
Yet to post message
Username: james_a
Post Number: 1
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, 29 July, 2004 - 19:26: | |
From my reading of the circuit diagram (I wish I could find it again right now) I would expect the brake lamp failure warning COULD give a false alarm if the current drawn by the LED tail lights was insuffucuent to "pull in" the series solenoids. Apart from this, I see no reason why they would not work now you have found the faulty fuse clamp.
Please give us a "pass" or "fail" once you've tried the LEDs out. |
William H. Trovinger II
Grand Master
Username: bill_trovinger
Post Number: 131
Registered: 8-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, 29 July, 2004 - 23:34: | |
Richard;
I will try removing one later today and see if the warning lamp still works. Draw should be the same as they are 12 Volt lamps. Current is reduced inside the bulb by a resistor, or at least that is my understanding.
James;
I will update after driving with them at night. I can say this I have been using LED in some of our other cars for a time know and like them for several reasons. Higher visablity, cooler running and longer life.
Regards,
Bill |
Richard Treacy
Grand Master
Username: richard_treacy
Post Number: 254
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Friday, 30 July, 2004 - 00:43: | |
Bill,
LEDs are superior in almost every way, and this will be a good mod. If the warning lamp doesn't come on don't worry: you should never need it again once set up, but I am interested anyhow. Because LEDs draw much less current for a given output of light, as James says there may be insufficient current to energise the reed relay in the brake lamp warning system in case of a failure.
The only very minor drawback with LEDs is that when the battery drops below 9 or 10 volts, the lamps will not illuminate at all as they are semiconductors and not resistive loads like conventional incandescent bulbs.
I would guess that the lower current requirement caused your dirty connection not to conduct. Because there is much less current to wet relay or switch contacts, or crack through a bad connetion, LEDs need very clean connections, earthing points and splices. |
William H. Trovinger II
Grand Master
Username: bill_trovinger
Post Number: 132
Registered: 8-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, 31 July, 2004 - 06:51: | |
Richard;
Your suspension was correct. With one brake lamp removed and the other an LED the brake-warning lamp does NOT come on. However, they are both in and working correctly. Even though the car has only been out during daylight the lamps due seem a fair amount brighter.
I have also replaced the “capless” bulbs for the Speedo, gas gauge, clock and alternator gauge with LED bulbs also. Hoping this improves the nighttime visibility.
Best regards,
Bill
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