| Author | Message | ||
     Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 280 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Folks, Does anybody know where I can get these door trim panel clips: (Let me restate that, because there are obvious places, like Flying Spares. Does anybody know a suitable replacement that is readily available from, say Fastenal or similar?)  Thanks for the help, Chris. | ||
| Bob UK Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.88 |
These are standard trim clips available from car trim shops. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Jeff Young Prolific User Username: jeyjey Post Number: 209 Registered: 10-2010 |
http://www.flyingspares.com/shop/rolls-royce-bentley-cloud-s1-s2-s3/body/doors-s1-2-3/clips-interior-trim/rolls-bentley-door-clip-ub2301.html http://www.flyingspares.com/shop/rolls-bentley-clip-ub2302.html | ||
| Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 284 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Jeff, Thanks. As I indicated in the original post, I knew about Flying Spares. International shipping is prohibitive. I can get these on ebay, for example, but I was hoping they were more generally available. Bob says I should be able to get them from what we call "speed shops". I was also hoping someone would say, "Yeah. You need to ask for 'Flumatation clips'.", or some such distinctive name, otherwise I need to visit the shops and show them what I have to see if they can match it. That's not a problem and a fun thing to do on a warm, sunny day, but there are lots of projects and this one is pretty low priority. Thanks for the help, Chris. | ||
| Jeff Young Prolific User Username: jeyjey Post Number: 210 Registered: 10-2010 |
Oops. Not a very good reader, am I? ;) These guys are a bit less dear, but not by a huge margin: http://www.bresco.com/acatalog/Trim_Pad_Clips.html (note price is for a pack of 12, with a similar amount for shipping to US) Cheers, Jeff. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1333 Registered: 6-2006 |
If you are happy to risk the post office,can post for about 5ukp ..... as long as you are not looking for hundreds ;) | ||
| Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 286 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Jeff, No worries; I often miss obvious stuff. My good friend, Brian Vogel, has smacked me on occasion. I googled "Rolls Royce Trim Panel Clip" and selected "Images". The second and third picture were exactly the clips we use in our cars, and not coincidentally, from Flying Spares and Bresco, respectively. There are hundreds of varieties. I'm wondering if anybody has tried these with any success:  They are far more prevalent and much cheaper, but I count the base among the differences, so attachment will be substantially different, although I think I could simulate the base on the stock part with a suitable washer. Thanks for the help, Chris. | ||
| Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 287 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Paul, That is unexpectedly generous, and I appreciate the offer. I'm going to try to source these locally, because I need about a dozen now and I would either need to be able to get more in the future, or get surplus now and then not lose them in the interim. You may recall, I lost my paintball equipment when I "re-filed" it from the "Project Supplies" category to the "Tools" category, so these tiny things would easily go lost. I suspect the more common bent bar variety pictures above with a washer at the base will adequately simulate the stock component, if the washer is not too thick... Thanks for the help, Chris. | ||
| Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 289 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Folks, Has anybody ever tried these?:  http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/11234573?searchMode=productSearch&filterByVendingMachine= Thanks for the help, Chris. | ||
| Jeff Young Prolific User Username: jeyjey Post Number: 211 Registered: 10-2010 |
Hi Chris, I'd worry that the Fastenal clip would be too loose (as its widest part is farther out). The other one you posted is similar to the clips used on Triumphs, MGs etc. As the hardboard base of the door panel ages the bearing surface of the clip isn't large enough and so it punches through the hardboard (either while installing or removing). The great thing about the Rover/RR/Bentley ones is they have a large bearing surface. That being said, I've never taken apart a RR/B door panel. If it's actual plywood under the leather (rather than hardboard), then the smaller bearing surface likely won't be an issue.... Cheers, Jeff. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1334 Registered: 6-2006 |
Never take the metal rectangle off the the door pad (or any other piece of trim). The proper clips twist in and out of the holders so can be replaced easily. IMHO buying twelve correct ones, fitting six and losing the other six would be better a better bet than fitting the wrong ones. | ||
| Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 290 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Jeff, > I'd worry that the Fastenal clip would be too loose (as its widest part is farther out). Yeah, ... me, too. Without any direct experience, I will go and at least evaluate their clip to the one I carry for comparison purposes. The stock clip is 3/4" and theirs is about 1/2", so the wide point looks farther out, because proportionally, it is, but absolutely, it is close to the right spot. I won't know until I get a sample and try it out... > That being said, I've never taken apart a RR/B door panel I've stripped mine too many times to count. It is a time-consuming and tedious process! Most recently, I replaced my speakers, and while I had everything apart, I glued plastic sheeting to the backs of the trim panels. This was an easy project, and I recommend it to anybody who has a reason to strip their doors. The panels are plywood, and not an engineered fiber board. On the '71, the panels are warped and I now understand that the doors are not water tight so moisture will get in them and the moisture warps the plywood. On the '72, a previous owner did some serious interior work -- some really good and some less good -- that needed to be preserved, so as a prophylactic measure, I glued plastic sheet to the backs of the panels. I notice that one panel was missing four or five clips, and every panel was missing at least one of the clips, so the next time I want to be prepared to to fix that. The '71 is much worse off than the '72, so I will probably eventually replace all the clips there, hence the quest for a local, inexpensive source. I will quite likely remember to come back and update this thread, when and if I find a suitable after-market replacement. If I don't anybody who is interested should bump the thread, which will ping me and I will respond. Chris. | ||
| Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 291 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Paul, > Never take the metal rectangle off the the door pad (or any other piece of trim). Exceptionally good advice. > The proper clips twist in and out of the holders so can be replaced easily. Yes. So, part of the evaluation is to see if the Fastenal clips can be fitted to the existing metal rectangular retaining brackets. Had you not mentioned this, I would have overlooked it, so thanks for the advice. > IMHO buying twelve correct ones, fitting six and losing the other six would be better a better bet than fitting the wrong ones. I agree. And not losing the surplus would be better than that, and finding an inexpensive, local supply would even better still. There is lots of room for improvement in the way I do things. (-: Thanks for the help, Chris. | ||
| Chris Browne Prolific User Username: chrisb Post Number: 169 Registered: 2-2010 |
Hello Chris, "I googled "Rolls Royce Trim Panel Clip" and selected "Images". The second and third picture were exactly the clips we use in our cars, and not coincidentally, from Flying Spares and Bresco, respectively. There are hundreds of varieties. I'm wondering if anybody has tried these with any success: Door trim panel retainer clip" The clip you referred to above is not a door card clip but is used to fasten the exterior chrome trim strips to the doors on Silver Clouds and others, possibly. Hope this helps. Kind regards, Chris | ||
| Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 292 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Chris, > The clip you referred to above is not a door card clip ... Yes. True. However, it looks like an inexpensive part and with the addition of a suitable washer to make the base, I think I could make it work quite nicely. However, it is no more readily available than the stock clip, so that is also not a productive pursuit. It does give me the idea that maybe I could easily make some like it... Thanks for the help, Chris. | ||
| Tim North Unregistered guest Posted From: 86.155.217.167 |
You could also try these people: http://www.bresco.com/index.html (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1335 Registered: 6-2006 |
Door membranes really are a must. If you ever take a door pad off and there isn't one on the car, it's because somebody has LEFT it off. We're always replacing missing or torn ones. They are usually stuck to the door not the pad, both would probably be even better. If you have a household carpet shop near you, the plastic the rolls of carpet come in are perfect for membranes - and they are usually more than happy for people to take them away for free. There are also drains in the bottom of the doors that need an occasional cleaning. There's one that's near the hinge end and is pretty obscure. The correct clips were the best, used for 50 plus years, and are much better than any of the newer model clips (Seraph onwards) and will last a lifetime if carefully lined up when fitting. If broken replace with the SAME type. If bent, they will take re-straitening. If loose, stick a Phillips head screwdriver through them and open them up again. ALWAYS buy the correct ones. Chris, put any spare ones in a bag and tape to the height control ram. Safe and sound then  | ||
| Richard Treacy Grand Master Username: richard_treacy Post Number: 3129 Registered: 4-2003 |
I really can't believe this. If Introcar or Flying Spares and the rest are good enough to provide the correct parts for a miserable $2 or $3 each, for heavens' sakes snap them up. Given the time it takes for them to process an order for a paltry dozen clips at a time they are giving them away simply in the interest of being complete spares providers. Otherwise they will give up and we will all be scraping for a lousy alternative. If the spares supply chains are fragmented even more you will be spending your old age searching the world for that elusive light bulb. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 553 Registered: 5-2012 |
Paul A problem I have had in replacing torn door membranes is finding the correct adhesive to use. This needs to good enough to hold the membrane for many years but must also allow the easy removal of the membrane without ripping off the door paint. Last time I used permatex clear rtv silicone, but I am by no means sure this was the best "adhesive" to use. As a professional, what do you use. Regards Geoff | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 554 Registered: 5-2012 |
As an afterthought, has anyone come across the adhesive the manufacturers use for door membranes. Whenever I have removed a membrane the adhesive is invariably still tacky, even on older cars after many years and can often be re-used. Despite web searches I have never been able to find the precise adhesive they use. I once used a type of propriety putty used on BMW's. It was similar to blu tac/office putty. I have to say I didn't much like it and would have much prefered to use a more traditional glue, if only I knew what to buy. Geoff | ||
| Jan Forrest Grand Master Username: got_one Post Number: 707 Registered: 1-2008 |
In the past I've used double sided adhesive tape to hold the membrane in place. It can usually hold up to 2 or 3 removals and refixes before it has to be replaced. | ||
| Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 293 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Geoff, I used a 3M spray adhesive from Home Depot. It worked very well. 3M produces a few of them in various degrees of sticky. I used the one the label "90", whatever that means. I stuck the plastic sheet to the back of the panel for exactly the reason that I didn't want to have to remove it to get into the door. It is not clear to me that there is any benefit to sticking it to the door. I thought about it for some time and couldn't find any reason why the back of the panel wasn't mechanically equivalent and far more convenient. I someone has an idea why sticking it to the door prevents a failure mode that the back of the panel doesn't, I'd like to hear it, because it may justify adding a membrane to the door the next time I have the chance. Chris. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1126 Registered: 6-2009 |
I have generally used tape as well, masking tape in most cases. The green stuff works really well. That being said, after having done this enough the idea hit me: Why am I always attaching this membrane to the door rather than the door panel? Manufacturers did this because you could slap the thing on the door then push the door panel on over it quickly - no precision is involved. I've now taken to affixing the membrane to the door panel and using the clips themselves as part of the way of holding it on to the panel in addition to a bit of tape. If you take the time to get this set up once you never have to deal with the membrane as a separate unit again. You can now remove the door panel and membrane as a unit. It's not as though these things serve as "hermetically sealed barriers" since they all have multiple holes cut in them to allow various bits to pass through. The extra holes at the periphery don't decrease their intended primary function. Although Paul's recommendation of the very heavy plastic that surrounds carpet rolls really is ideal if you can easily lay your hands on some (and about as economical as you can get, too, and generally has the advantage of being clear), heavy black plastic weed mat that you can get at virtually any garden center is as close to identical as I've ever found to the OEM stuff (for a wide number of manufacturers). Brian | ||
| Chris Miller Prolific User Username: cjm51213 Post Number: 294 Registered: 5-2013 |
Hi Geoff, I should mention that using the spray adhesive on the panel is not a no-brainer. I did spend time masking all the holes from the back so glue would not get through to the finished side. This also includes the perimeter of the panel. I also masked off the clips because part of their function is to be able to slide around and the adhesive would gunk them up. The clips were pretty easy. Two pieces of masking tape -- one with a hole punched in it from a desk hole punch and the second pieces folded around the protruding clip. Masking didn't take more than ten minutes for each panel. Then I rough cut my pieces 2'x3' from a heavy gauge drop cloth, also from Home Depot, stuck them together and trimmed the plastic to size. I was tempted to use a razor blade for this, but I used scissors. There were a fair number of holes, like the window controls and the central lock controls, and I used them as additional attachment. I didn't cut the material out of the hole. Instead I cut an "X" in the plastic, and for this I did use a razor blade, leaving four triangular flaps that I folded back and which now gave me multiple thickness of plastic to staple near the perimeter of the hole. I used a simple desk stapler because it had nice small staples and it worked really well. Double-sided tape probably would have been a whole lot easier, had I though of it... Chris. | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 555 Registered: 5-2012 |
Thanks for the info. I do have reservations with attaching the membrane to the rear of the door card. I like to get a good seal around the apertures in the door and always use adhesive up the the edges of them, to get a good seal. I know the door clips pull the card close to these apertures, however I would imagine there is still opportunity for water to run down the inside of the door card onto the carpet and bottom edges of the card. Sealing the apertures keeps all of the water inside the door where it runs out through the drain holes. Geoff | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 556 Registered: 5-2012 |
I guess I should add I am now living in Florida and some of the storms need to be seen to be believed. Walk out in one and it's like someone is throwing buckets of water over you - instant drenching. So I do need to make sure I have got good weather seals. Geoff | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1127 Registered: 6-2009 |
Geoff, If you look at the original membranes, and how they're cut out and affixed, you quickly come to realize that they're far more "splash guards" of a sort than anything else. On any car I've pulled the door panels from these things are never "sealed up tight" but tend to have a lot of pre-cut holes, often of significant size, to allow various bits and pieces to come through. These are made of a treated paper in my 1989 Cadillac. If you drive in the rain you could definitely do an experiment and do so with a door panel off so that you can actually see what happens as far as water flow within the door and how these barriers need to function. SRH33576 was missing these barriers, probably for decades, and lived in Florida for 17 years then Georgia for 1 before I became her custodian. Three of the panels seemed to be untouched and the damage to the fourth was minimal and could have occurred heaven knows when. Brian | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 557 Registered: 5-2012 |
Brian Actually, that would make for an interesting experiment. When the rainy season starts next April I might just do that. Given the intensity of the rainfall I could do it static on the driveway. It would also be a good test for the windscreen, rear screen and trunk weatherstrips. Geoff | ||
| Bob UK Unregistered guest Posted From: 94.197.122.72 |
Membrane plastic is available from body shop suppliers. Gaffer tape works well. The hole that the clip goes into sometimes gets pushed in a bit dolly them out from behind using Palm dolly. In desperation self taping screws buried in the carpet bit can help. If the ply is damp then paint with clean engine oil. The ply can be replaced, by removing the leather and thin foam beneath. Keep leather damp to work it. My local trim supply shop has these clips and the ones for the rear light carpet flaps in stock. Try moss and David Manners. (Message approved by david_gore) | ||
| Geoff Wootton Grand Master Username: dounraey Post Number: 558 Registered: 5-2012 |
I'm all for innovative and interesting solutions however I think it is easy to get carried away with this mode of thinking. If the ply is damp surely the best solution is to buy a new piece of plywood, the same thickness and grade as the original and then use the original as a template to cut out a new backing piece. Fit the correct clips and re-cover with new foam and the original leather. An enjoyable day's work at the most for a perfect solution for less than 50 bucks including clips. The reason I would never paint a damp board with clean engine oil is I don't want the smell of such in my car. Also, burying self tapping screws in the carpeted part of the door is so unfair on future owners attempting to remove the door card without damaging it. I found Chris's original question, seeking suppliers of replacement clips to be quite valid. However, it is coming across loud and clear these clips are not readily available. So, at just 3 bucks a pop from FS - that's fine with me. Much more preferable to spending ages putting together a non-standard and inferior solution. Geoff. |
