| Author | Message | ||
     Jean-Pierre 'JP' Hilbert Prolific User Username: jphilbert Post Number: 129 Registered: 9-2013 |
My central locking consists of a Clifford ACE switch box installed in the left side wall near the floor (heel board). It seems to be an alarm too, but I never saw nor heard that function in action. My first question is whether such system was standard on a 1985 Corniche? Then, what I could diagnose with my 2 left hands, is that the power from this box is not sufficient to operate the door and trunk solenoids all the way. The solenoids click and move but not sufficiently all the way in. They will only lock properly on each 10th push of the button or so. About one third of the time, the box won't give any signal at all to the solenoids. There are 3 sugar cube relays wired to the switch box. Replaced those relays but no change in operation. The door locking solenoids work fine when using the switch on the door card. Considering the age of the system, the wire spaghetti mess (pic attached), and the low cost of a modern remote system (maybe with keyless entry and remote start, controlled by a smartphone, hehe), my second question is whether anybody around here has had such a modern system installed on a PerrfectMotorCarr? Finally, I would want to throw in a third question, how those door solenoids are powered and their function steered? I see a black cable, a grey/pink and a black/pink cable going into each of them.  | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1699 Registered: 6-2009 |
JP, The black wire is ground/earth. The black/pink and grey/pink are the +12V switched power sources to the lock/unlock solenoid [or vice versa, the easiest way to check is to see which goes live when you hit lock versus which goes live when you hit unlock]. Chapter M21 in the Workshop Manual covers the electric door locks. Depending on whether your car is prior to #12001 or after you would refer to a different wiring diagram. Brian | ||
| michael vass Experienced User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 35 Registered: 7-2015 |
Thank you have answered a question I had, I found 2 "extra" relays in the boot with a grey/pink wire on with no know function. I now know that they (previous owner) had the same problem you had and fitted them to boost the signal, you could try that eh? cheers Mike | ||
| Jean-Pierre 'JP' Hilbert Prolific User Username: jphilbert Post Number: 130 Registered: 9-2013 |
Brian, thanks for that, and for the TSD reference, forgot to look it up before posting silly questions ;) found it, the Clifford system must be aftermarket (look at that cable salad on the pic, haha), also by the way it is wired into the system. Will have it removed and have a modern unit installed after pulling a proper 12V straight from the alternator. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1700 Registered: 6-2009 |
JP, You really can't "pull a proper 12V straight from the alternator" if you want a central locking system to work when the car is not running. I recently installed one in my 1989 Cadillac and have the same system to install in my RR. Geoff Wootton has use it as well, search these forums. I tapped into the +12V line for the seat motors, which is always live in the Cadillac, as the power source for the transponder. The issues with insufficient "oomph" being delivered to the solenoids, even when everything is in perfect adjustment, has been covered repeatedly and at great length. Most often, though, cleaning/lubing your linkages and the solenoids helps considerably. Brian | ||
| Jean-Pierre 'JP' Hilbert Prolific User Username: jphilbert Post Number: 131 Registered: 9-2013 |
Brian, Did I not write that I have 2 left hands in all matters involving electrics? ...of course I meant the ''other'' alternator, the second, special alternator my car is equipped with. It is installed in the boot, is of square shape and is very, very heavy. It produces 12V even when the engine is switched off! All joking aside, I'll read the posts you kindly directed me to, appreciated! Actually, I have already tapped into the 12V from the ''hot battery bus'' as we call it in aviation, and have a roll of several feet of electrical cable sleeping under the dashboard. The end is blanked off and its purpose is to provide a source of 12V for troubleshooting and hopefully alleviation ''on the road'' in FTP conditions. | ||
| Brian Vogel Grand Master Username: guyslp Post Number: 1701 Registered: 6-2009 |
JP, Because I have in times past, and certainly will in times yet to come, type something I didn't mean literally but that can be read that way which would cause disaster if taken literally. Thus, when I see something that might fall into that category I feel the need to respond. It's not a criticism nor an attempt to be snarky, just to avert possible disaster. We may want to coin the term lead-acid alternator! I like the phrase "hot battery bus." Right now one of my clients, who is legally blind and already an ace automobile mechanic, is enrolled in an aircraft maintenance program at our local community college. As it so happens the course he just started is electrics, so I may be hearing that terminology if I'm in class assisting on the right day. Brian | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 592 Registered: 5-2015 |
Door locking mechanisms need oil. Sowing machine oil good, engine oil OK. 3 in 1 spray oil very good.. My Jeep and Shadow do this lots of oil and they are ok for 2 or 3 years. The locking solenoids or motors use a fair bit of amps. So the electronics work relays. If the locks are trying then the electronics and relays are OK. So check the high amp power side and earth. |
