| Author | Message | ||
     Bill Hart Experienced User Username: bill_hart Post Number: 26 Registered: 6-2015 |
1995 Turbo R 55371. Drivers seat module dysfunctional, seat wouldn't move. Passenger side o.k. Moved passenger module to drivers seat, everything functional. Sent removed module out for repair. When returned and re-installed the solenoids would click but seat wouldn't move. Sent module back and was told the harness was at fault, and corrected. Reinstalled module, same problem. Improper installation? The hookups are idiot proof. Bad motors? They worked o.k. before. Bad ground? Three ground wires which I attached where another wire was grounded. And, also, the solenoids click. I'm stumped. Any suggestions before I send the module bgack again? | ||
| Martin Taylor Experienced User Username: martin_taylor Post Number: 13 Registered: 7-2013 |
Try it in the other seat to prove the module as you did previously | ||
| Bill Hart Experienced User Username: bill_hart Post Number: 27 Registered: 6-2015 |
Did a search on this topic (should have done that first) and found Richard Treacy's excellent write up re the 4-3-3-4 procedure. Sounds promising, but as I'm electronically illiterate I want to be sure I thoroughly understand what I'm doing before I start punching buttons. Therefore, I'd really appreciate answers to the following questions: 1, It says depress DRIVERS memory button 5 times. I can do that. 2.Then it says "immediately punch 4-3-3-4". Does that mean again in the drivers console? Or the passenger side? Or either one? 3. Before I can select a seat position in the memory, I must be able to move the seat. Will this procedure make the seat move? Note to Martin Taylor: Good suggestion. I'll do that if all else fails. It's quite a grunt. All replies appreciated. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1394 Registered: 6-2006 |
Hi Bill. Press mem switch and 4 3 3 4 switches for the seat ecu you are initialising. It will not help (I fear) if the seat will not move anyway. Do not sit in the seat when you do it. It will move to every extreme. Do the working seat first to confirm you're doing the button press correctly. Triple check the connections are firmly in and correct and check all the seat fuses. You can swap the connectors on the rear of the seat switches left to right to double check them. | ||
| Bill Hart Experienced User Username: bill_hart Post Number: 29 Registered: 6-2015 |
My Turbo R, SCX55371, was manufactured during 10/94. It's my understanding that on some earlier models it was possible to bypass the seat ecu memory and convert to manual operation. Can that be done on my model? | ||
| gordon le feuvre Frequent User Username: triumph Post Number: 89 Registered: 7-2012 |
Bill, this "fix" of by-passing seat memory can only be done on pre 30,000 series cars,1990 model year with active damping. This is because on pre 1990 cars seat memory was an option, so the cars were wired to have/have not memory. Info on this can be found in Spirit workshop manual under TSD4701 in RROC | ||
| Bill Hart Experienced User Username: bill_hart Post Number: 30 Registered: 6-2015 |
Thanks to Martin Taylor, Paul Yorke and Gordon le Feuvre for responses. I can't fathom my problem. I'm giving up on local mechanics and am going to try electricians There must be a fix. | ||
| michael vass Experienced User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 37 Registered: 7-2015 |
Hi Bill Have you tried the drivers side ecu in the passenger side? You said you tried the passenger one in the divers side and it worked ok? if so why send it to be fixed? hope I can help Mike ps have you a picture of ecu to see if it looks like mine? | ||
| Bill Hart Experienced User Username: bill_hart Post Number: 31 Registered: 6-2015 |
Hi Michael, The driver side ecu failed but passenger side worked. Moved passenger ecu to driver side and it worked there. Sent original driver ecu out for rework but it won't work on passenger side. Clicking sound, but seat doesn't move. I went through the 4334 procedure-no help.I doubt the passenger seat motors or switches suddenly failed, so it must still be the ecu. I guess the only way to really know is to swap ecus again. I'm reasonably sure that would indicate the "repaired" ecu is still dysfunctional. Mechanic can't diagnose ecu problem. Maybe and electrician can. | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 370 Registered: 4-2012 |
Bill I wonder would it be possible to find a second hand part out of a salvage yard or is it possible that some other makes of Vehicle use the same seat electrics. Richard. | ||
| Bill Hart Experienced User Username: bill_hart Post Number: 32 Registered: 6-2015 |
Richard, My repaired ecu is under warranty and if I can prove the repair is defective I can get my money back. Then, for the same amount of money I can buy a reworked ecu from Flying Spares which, presumably, would be o.k. I guess the only thing to do is swap the ecus again. But I've had it with mechanics working on electrical problems. | ||
| michael vass Experienced User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 38 Registered: 7-2015 |
Hi Bill I'm a C&G qualified auto-electrician and took 4 years apprenticeship and agree with you, why do mechanics think they are electricians? ,you wouldn't call a brick layer to do wiring in your house would you? Although a lot of modern cars it is just box swapping. Give the boxes one more swap and see eh? Mike | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1397 Registered: 6-2006 |
Quote: "this "fix" of by-passing seat memory can only be done on pre 30,000 series cars,1990 model year with active damping. This is because on pre 1990 cars seat memory was an option, so the cars were wired to have/have not memory." True of all grey ecu's but also many of the 1998 on cars can not be bypassed. It depends on what seat switch unit you have. Early ones have 3 wires to each switch later type just have 2 wires. You can't tell easily but the relay socket is an indication. Bill, if they haven't fixed your ecu in two attempts then I would say that money back is probably the best option. Do swap them over and double check though. While you have the other unit out, take the lid off and make sure that the battery has been changed or you will run into the same problem with that one. A dark blue battery or signs of leakage means it's time for a new battery. We consider seat ecu battery replacement a SERVICE ITEM. They will last about 10 years safely. We replace the battery and write the date on the case where it can be seen. This will save you a fortune over getting the unit reconditioned. We keep batteries and ECU's in stock to save down time. Two tips/warnings to all owners of the Spirit range with black seat adjusting buttons: 1: Whichever seat unit you have, to keep it working you must have the battery changed. If you don't know for certain if it has been changed in the past 10 years then get the unit out and the battery changed. Picture of old type battery and leak damage. https://www.facebook.com/480142005358985/photos/a.493227054050480.107909.480142005358985/558041080902410/?type=3&theater 2: Don't just send your faulty one to your local auto electrician or TV repair shop to TRY and fix it. Nine out of ten times we have not been able to repair boards is when repairs have already been attempted. Cheaper is not always a bargain! | ||
| michael vass Experienced User Username: mikebentleyturbo2 Post Number: 39 Registered: 7-2015 |
Hi All While we're on the subject does anybody know where I can get replacment memory microswitches , the ones with mem and 1234 on? Don't care if logo on or not. I don't want to spend a lot as I never use them anyway just like things working properly. Cheers Mike | ||
| Bill Hart Experienced User Username: bill_hart Post Number: 33 Registered: 6-2015 |
Hi all. I'm going to take the car to an auto electrician this afternoon. A lot of people are spooked by Bentleys, but if he will agree to work on it I will have him swap the modules - just to get the amateur (me) out of the loop. If the reworked module is faulty I will request a refund and try one from Flying Spares. Wish me luck. | ||
| Bill Hart Experienced User Username: bill_hart Post Number: 38 Registered: 6-2015 |
Whoopee!! Finally got the seat module problem corrected and it was the amateur (me) who did it.Took the car to an auto electrician, as planned, and he found no indication the motors were grounded. Bad ECU indicated. Contacted "Module Master" about warranty refund and they insisted the module bench checked perfect and that there must be some problem with the car. Totally frustrated, I went out to swap the modules to settle the question once and for all. With the seat cushion off I was standing there dreading the inevitable skinned knuckles and stiff back when I looked again at a female connector which, by its shape, didn't seem receptive to any male connector. I, two mechanics and the electrician had all thought the female connector was for some accessory which wasn't on the car. And then, Eureka!! It dawned on me that the wires from the connector led to the motors. Obviously, the motors weren't plugged in. No wonder they wouldn't work. No way did the available male connector look like it would fit the female, but looks can be deceiving. Positioned properly, the male plug snapped right in and the seats immediately moved in response to the switches. I can't believe that all concerned missed that obvious glitch for so long. Terminal dumbass. | ||
| Paul Yorke Grand Master Username: paul_yorke Post Number: 1399 Registered: 6-2006 |
Great news  Sometimes the most obvious is TOO obvious!! Don't forget the battery change in the other working unit! | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 615 Registered: 5-2015 |
The key thing to take away from this episode is that electrical connectors are the weakest link and the first thing to check out. Every electrical fault I have repaired on my car has been dodgy connectors------but which one is the trick. The most serious fault I had was no park on the gearbox. That was a broken wire in the socket to the actuator caused by vinegar in the silicon sealer used by Crewe to seal the connector. Similarly when me alternator packed up the brushes were replaced and it was fine. Brushes are a sort of connector. Also I popped in brgs while on the bench. A tip is if a connector had to be replaced solder is much better than crimping. A properly done crimp is good but doing a crimp requires an expensive calibrated crimpers which are big and difficult in tight places. Also if a verdris copper green is present, push the connector into an orange or pickled onion over night then wash with WD40 then smear with petroleum jelly. A small tube is easiest to use. Petroluem jelly doesn't damage trim or wood or leather. Well done for spotting the stray wire. I think the professionals who checked the car have fallen down on the job and need to take note. |
