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Michael Moran
Experienced User
Username: mjcmoran

Post Number: 47
Registered: 8-2005
Posted on Sunday, 06 September, 2015 - 18:34:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

A simple question.

I have a small coolant leak from the steam valve cover and will replace the paper gasket.

I imagine I should lightly sand the surfaces clear of any residual paper from the old gasket but should I in addition use a silicon gasket sealant or some other gasket sealant to ensure a tight fit.

Tightening all those steam valve cover bolts equally is an interesting exercise for what should be a small job. I also do not want to deform the header tank through over tightening.

Any advice?

Michael
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Jeff Young
Prolific User
Username: jeyjey

Post Number: 227
Registered: 10-2010
Posted on Sunday, 06 September, 2015 - 18:48:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

I don’t as a rule like silicone gasket sealants because they harden. A thin smear of hylomar wouldn’t go amiss, though.

Tighten the bolts in a star fashion. (Tighten one, then the one opposite it, then the one at 90° to that, then opposite, etc.) If you use a screwdriver handle for your socket (instead of a socket wrench), you shouldn’t over-tighten them.

Cheers,
Jeff.
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Michael Moran
Experienced User
Username: mjcmoran

Post Number: 48
Registered: 8-2005
Posted on Sunday, 06 September, 2015 - 18:54:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks Jeff for the advice. Will follow it.

I use a socket wrench by the way.

Michael
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Jeff Young
Prolific User
Username: jeyjey

Post Number: 228
Registered: 10-2010
Posted on Sunday, 06 September, 2015 - 19:04:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Michael,

Do you have a 1/4-drive socket set? Using the wrench handle from that will also decrease the odds of over-tightening anything.

Cheers,
Jeff.
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David Lacey
Frequent User
Username: dlacey

Post Number: 61
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Sunday, 06 September, 2015 - 20:08:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Michael,
That gasket shouldn't see pressure, it's the low pressure side of the steam valve. It shouldn't leak from there. Maybe your Steam valve or its mounting ring is leaking??
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Michael Moran
Experienced User
Username: mjcmoran

Post Number: 49
Registered: 8-2005
Posted on Sunday, 06 September, 2015 - 20:25:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hello David

The 'leak' is just one or two drops of coolant evident at the side of the header tank on hot days. We have had many in Poland this summer (30-35C) - in fact the country is suffering the first real drought since the 18th century. I can tell from the coolant colour when it dries.

Replacing that steam valve correctly gave me some grief a few months ago as I could find nothing in the WM about it or even Tee One Topics (header tank details yes but not the actual steam valve placement detail).

I bought a new valve (during a cooling system overhaul) and I guessed it should be placed with the wider flange end down and with the hole pointing towards the header tank overflow tube.

Right?

Michael
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David Lacey
Frequent User
Username: dlacey

Post Number: 62
Registered: 11-2010
Posted on Sunday, 06 September, 2015 - 22:33:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Michael,

Yes, your assembly seems correct. But it shouldn't be operating at all...unless there's excess coolant in the header tank. It should stabilise at a certain level and not need topping up. Here in Malaysia I am running at ambient 34 and don't lose water. So, if you lose water to the extent that the coolant level warning comes on, then there's a deeper problem in my view.
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Michael Moran
Experienced User
Username: mjcmoran

Post Number: 50
Registered: 8-2005
Posted on Monday, 07 September, 2015 - 01:18:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Thanks again David.

I am not actually losing coolant and have not topped it up for months. It was just these few drops that I noticed near the plate.

Being somewhat of a perfectionist I thought I should do something about it!

I will fit the new gasket and watch.

All the best

Michael
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 957
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Monday, 07 September, 2015 - 01:50:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Michael

I'm running in ambient 30 in Florida and also have no problem with losing coolant. I note your car is a 74, the same as mine, so will not have a temperature gauge, unless someone has fitted one as non-standard (like me ). It may be your engine is running a little too hot in your ambient 35.

Tee-one topics does cover the steam valve. Issue 45, page 668.

http://rrtechnical.info/TeeOne/TO45.pdf

There are some great tips in this article, particularly on how to remove the 2ba bolts. Bill recommends using sealant, or "glue" as he refers to it. The cover on my header tank uses sealant.

As a separate question, does anyone know if the rubber sealing ring in the filler cap housing is absolutely necessary. On some recent work I noticed this rubber ring was missing on my car. The thing is, It's absence does not appear to make any difference. There is no coolant or pressure loss through the filler cap. Should I fit a replacement anyway?

Geoff
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Geoff Wootton
Grand Master
Username: dounraey

Post Number: 958
Registered: 5-2012
Posted on Monday, 07 September, 2015 - 01:51:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Hi Michael

I posted at the same time - disregard my "hot engine" comments.

Geoff
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Christian S. Hansen
Frequent User
Username: enquiring_mind

Post Number: 58
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Monday, 07 September, 2015 - 06:21:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Michael...
All due respect to perfectionism, but given the propensity for the 2BA screws to break off during removal (which I can attest happens with little or no advance warning and cannot be predetermined), and considering that the residue of two small occasional drops can perhaps simply be wiped away with a soft cloth, as an alternative to possibly provoking the Devil's wrath, you should give serious consideration to whether this issue falls into the "if it is not broken, do not fix it" category. At this point, the repair seems to be entirely discretionary and if you don't like the two small drops, you will enjoy removing the header tank and the process of extracting the bolt stub and rethreading the 2BA holes even less.
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Michael Moran
Frequent User
Username: mjcmoran

Post Number: 51
Registered: 8-2005
Posted on Monday, 07 September, 2015 - 06:36:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Good point Christian!

I was actually thinking after all these advice posts of just watching and waiting. Anyway it does not happen on every outing only on very hot days.

I have had the cover off without any problems with the bolts twice before but I suppose one never knows. I did not realize they caused so much trouble!

Thanks
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Christian S. Hansen
Frequent User
Username: enquiring_mind

Post Number: 59
Registered: 4-2015
Posted on Monday, 07 September, 2015 - 09:53:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

Michael...
Oops. My error. Brain synapses not functioning. You did say you had replaced the valve, so clearly you have already dodged the 2BA "bullet". The risk is, I would imagine, when you are the first to have removed them in, what, 40-50 plus years. Replacing with a bit of "never seize", or even new bolts, should adequately hedge the bets upon any future removals. In my case, 5 of the 6 came right out with only a small closed end wrench, but the sixth was tight and that first 1/4 turn not only ripped the corner off the aluminum plate, but was the bolt head shearing off.
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Randy Roberson
Grand Master
Username: wascator

Post Number: 509
Registered: 5-2009
Posted on Tuesday, 08 September, 2015 - 03:27:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IP

My Car's steam valve was completely shot so I had no choice but to attempt removal of the tiny 2 BA screws, but they did not break. My Car's cooling system was not even pressuring up. I also found the thermostat had been "abducted".
Got it back together and I also had a tiny 'drop or two' leak, but it soon stopped and no more problems. I half-way suspected the tank might have a tiny crack or leak at the solder joint where the fitting was attached. So far, so good.