| Author | Message | ||
     Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 349 Registered: 5-2015 |
A mate who is a ship engineer popped round today. I have the rat trap cover off and was explaining how it worked. He was impressed with the mechanism. Then I showed him the pumps and the reservoir. Again he said nice. Then we got to ACV and spheres. He was not impressed with where they are fitted. He was impressed with the 90 pumps though. Till he checked out the warning lamps then he started tutting. I explained that the original set up had flexible pipes but they kept blowing so they fitted solid steel lines instead. At 250 quid a pair ouch. He said but that doesn't explain the location of such an important part of the hydraulics. If they were using flexibles then simply mount the acvs to the body not the engine. He said simply move stuff around and use better flexibles. The original location makes the use of fatter pipes awkward. He said in ships this wouldn't be acceptable. He knows all about hydraulics because hes a ships engineer retired. I have to agree with him but I don't have any problems with my acvs. Touch wood. Chris Miller mentioned permanent pressure gauges fitted to the dash. A bit awkward that one. He the ships engineer suggested two 40mm gauges fitted under the bonnet next to the reservoir. Using the acv bleed nipple ports as a feed for the gauge and flexibles for engine movement. He was not happy with the warning lamps because what do that actually mean no brakes or about to fail brakes depending upon pressure switch calibration which the driver doesn't know. To actually fit gauges inside the car would get expensive. Because I have never seen a 0 to 200 bar gauge that isn't industrial looking plus one now has brake fluid inside the car awaiting to reek havoc. Electric gauges are available usually digital and mega money. However should anybody want to attempt such a fete of engineering. The rat trap is under the floor so a pair of tee pieces 6 quid each, in the supply lines to the brake distribution valves and up through the floor. But where the gauges go is another matter. Also the gauges aren't back lit and are white back ground. May be put the gauges flush in the floor beside the drivers seat and leave a flap of carpet to cover them. The gauges are about 7.50p each. Tee pieces. 6 joints and two gauge connections. 8 extra places to leak. If the acv nipples are used then another 4 places to leak because of flexibles. I suppose the gauges could be mounted on the engine but then engine vibs come into play. A lot of thought needed. It would be ironic to have a safety feature that caused hydraulic failure. I am not going to do this because of easier said than done. But should one have to remove the complete rat trap mechanism for a rare reason then this mod wouldn't be to hard to do. But -------- If the system is correctly serviced ie bi annual fluid changes and a reservoir dung out and an occasional pump down count. then the system is perfectly safe. I have had two system failures. Front pump to acv burst then a month or so rear pump to acv. Caused by cheapo pipes. My fault. On both events nothing dramatic happened the light came on I stopped found the leak in seconds. I drove 2 miles home and brakes felt fine. The second time I was 18 miles so I got the AA to take me home in disgrace. So the systems safety features worked fine. Question my rat trap cover is black with under seal. What should the finish be. I fancy plain aluminium finish. Anyway theres nothing untoward in the rat trap. It all looks new. New self tappers for a proper job. 100 cost 3 quid. Enough for front wing liners as well. Because next question. The screen wash bottle under the wing idea. Any photos and what does the filler look like. And where does it go. Is there a kit. My first thought is to mount the pump under the bonnet not the wing or fender. For pump long life I like the pump to be higher than the wash bottle max level and use a non return valve just before the motor. Access easy should the pump fail to pump as they sometimes do. | ||
| Bob Reynolds Grand Master Username: bobreynolds Post Number: 307 Registered: 8-2012 |
This is a bit over the top for an hydraulic system that is already way too complicated. The braking system needs to be simplified, not made even more complicated. What it needs is the removal of all the brake pumps, control valves, tanks, accumulators, distribution valves, pressure switches, rat trap, etc etc. and replacing them by a simple master cylinder and servo under the floor! That really would be an improvement worth doing.  | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1706 Registered: 4-2003 |
Bob, The underside of DRH14434 was fully coated with a flexible underseal and a "stone guard" flexible coating subsequently painted black on the sills up to the trim strip. This was not specified in the vehicle build sheets so I do not know if this was standard or done after delivery by one of the UK owners prior to it being purchased in the UK by my father-in-law and shipped to Australia two years later. The rat trap cover was fully covered with underseal and showed no evidence of ever being removed prior to my fully overhauling the hydraulic system. | ||
| gordon le feuvre Frequent User Username: triumph Post Number: 83 Registered: 7-2012 |
The rat trap cover was always covered in underseal from new/factory. I was in UK dealership from start of Shadow until end. | ||
| Bob Reynolds Grand Master Username: bobreynolds Post Number: 308 Registered: 8-2012 |
Just wondering whether anybody has ever caught any rats in their rat trap yet. I've never caught a single one, and I am beginning to think that it isn't working properly and needs fixing.  | ||
| David Gore Moderator Username: david_gore Post Number: 1708 Registered: 4-2003 |
Thanks for confirmation Gordon - the car had rust in the sills and lower front guards that had been repaired in the UK with sections cut from scrap sheet steel. This is why I was under the impression the underseal had been applied after manufacture:     | ||
| Nigel Johnson Prolific User Username: nigel_johnson Post Number: 145 Registered: 12-2008 |
Those pictures bring back memories David. My friend has a Corniche CRH11939. The offside sill and bottom front wing were replaced before I knew him. The nearside sill we patched at the rear and I made a repair panel out of an old fridge for the front lower wing. A good 4 inches higher than yours. In between this work his son backed into the garage door jamb and caught the trailing edge of the offside wing just before the door. Duh! My friend has been diagnosed with demetia and so the car is beginning to suffer. It has been 8 years since we overhauled the brakes and he would not allow me to even change the RR363. I fear for him and the Corniche. Regards, Nigel. | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Grand Master Username: bob_uk Post Number: 352 Registered: 5-2015 |
When letting steel in to repair this area make sure that the sill trim fits properly because its easy to end up with sill trim not lying flat against where the door meets the wing. Also Jag XK 120 240 and 150 are the same the sill should be arrow line straight. I use only new sheet metal because the stuff I use forms and welds easy. 18 swg normally. It comes in 10ft x 6 ft sheets. The supplier cuts it down to 5x6 for me. As for fitting gauges I won't be doing this because on the potential for extra leaks. I have never driven a Shadow with a vacuum servo so I can't comment. But I suspect that the conversion is quite differcult. Main thing being front to back brake balance. Dementia gives one strange ideas. I shall just re under seal the rat trap. |
