| Author | Message | ||
     Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 367 Registered: 8-2007 |
Dear all, My 1994 Continental R has a very faint noise that I recognise well... the REAR wheel bearings are coming, or rather going. I know what is involved, so: before I set off to Brabo, is there a way to grease them and or to adjust them? Thanks, Lluís | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 368 Registered: 8-2007 |
PS, the excellent article on Tee-One 63 has been read, but it deals with replacement, not servicing, hence my question. | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Prolific User Username: bob_uk Post Number: 125 Registered: 5-2015 |
Assuming that the hub is like a Shadow. Between the flange with the wheel studs and the flange for the brake rotor. Is the smallest diameter of the hub. Underneath is a space with the wheel bearings in it. Drill and tap a hole for a plug. Then either pour gear oil in the hub 140 weight Or melted motorbike chain grease. If using melted grease heat hub with blow lamp to say 50c. So that the grease stays melted and flows into the bearings. Jag use a similar method on XJ6s etc. I have never done this and I have just thought of this method. If it doesn't work then its new bearings I am afraid. The hole drilled will not interfere with the operation of the hub or replacement of the bearings. Flying spares do exchange hubs for Shadows. Drawing of Shadow hub page J 22 of the workshop manual. | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 369 Registered: 8-2007 |
Thanks for the info, but I am afraid the Turbo uses a different setting. I like the idea of installing grease nipples though. | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Prolific User Username: bob_uk Post Number: 131 Registered: 5-2015 |
Lluis I have done a bit if research and I think your rear hubs will be much easier to repair. Your hubs are splined and as far as I can tell the nut that holds the flange on for the drive half shaft isnt that tight and the splines will just slide off. The Shadow has a taper and key which can take 60 tons to release and the nut is 500ftlbs | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 370 Registered: 8-2007 |
Perfect, there was an older post on this. I guess next week end I will see whether the Circlip is broken or the nut is loose. | ||
| Jean-Pierre 'JP' Hilbert Frequent User Username: jphilbert Post Number: 83 Registered: 9-2013 |
Lluis, It is a lot of work to access the rear bearings, even with the ''luxury'' of the splined shafts (you won't need to split that taper inside the hub, and you won't need to tighten some nut with 780Nm). Get yourself a pair of those aluminium nuts, they must be tapped into position and they are really not reusable. Any reportable progress yet? | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 371 Registered: 8-2007 |
Hi Jean Pierre and thanks, Next weekend I start, need to order everything from Flying Spares... I will post. See you, Lluís | ||
| Jean-Pierre 'JP' Hilbert Frequent User Username: jphilbert Post Number: 84 Registered: 9-2013 |
Lluis, Make sure you mark the driveshafts! They must go back in the same way of rotation. If you invert them, then the CV joints will turn in the opposite direction they were ''used'' too, and you may induce (unnecessary) metal fatigue...but this buggers were probably designed with 500% margin, so what )))) Also, make use of the fact that the CV joints are out and re-grease them, and reseal the rubbers with new metal ring-fittings. | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 372 Registered: 8-2007 |
Why? The driveshafts should simply "hang" from the differential, right? I have no reason to dismantle them I guess. accesibility seems excellent and I can clean in-situ? Also, from the drawings, unless something is seriously stuck, it seems to me that the think should come appart prety easily, almost a bit like the front bearings. I forget something, right? Thanks for any advice before I start. Lluís | ||
| Jean-Pierre 'JP' Hilbert Frequent User Username: jphilbert Post Number: 89 Registered: 9-2013 |
Lluis, On the tapered Woodruff key style hubs, you need to totally remove the driveshafts otherwise there won't be enough space to reach that 1in11/16 rear hub locknut with that monster 800Nm torque wrench. Then, the rears are more difficult than the front, which are easy. You need to remove the brake calliper and I always found it hard to align the calliper with the hub onto the subframe during re-installation. Finally, for adjusting the bearing end float, I suggest you mount the tire so that you can wobble the tire, that gives you more leverage than simply pulling on the brake disk. Do you have a dial gage? Also, measure your run-out on the brake disks before and after. For setting the races, I put them in the freezer a few hours before, and I grind down the old races a bit so I can use those to hammer-in the new ones. Finally, you won't need to dismantle the driveshafts. What I meant to say is to simply repack them with new grease. | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Prolific User Username: bob_uk Post Number: 206 Registered: 5-2015 |
If a drive shaft nut is recommended to be renewed when fitting new bearings and its very tight then an option is to grind the nut off. Also drilling a hole parallel to the shaft works. The drill size should be selected so that theres very little metal left around the hole. Smack with a chisel and the nut splits open and goes loose. However the new nut will have to be tortured. And the taper type needs quite a few tons to release. Fortunately flying spares sell reconditioned hubs complete with new disks. Unfortunately it could mean a new disk one side and an old disk on the other. Fortunately an old disk and new disk should be fine. Yes I know disks sould be changed in pairs. Pads definitely. But I think especially on rear brakes that providing the old disc is good then brake imbalance is unlikely. The Shadow and Spirit hub are both £400. The turbo one is £300. So should the job prove awkward then a reconditioned hub is an option. The bearings are £30 and £34. The nut is £40 The seals £25. So 300 including disk is not that expensive. Says he spending other people's money. | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 373 Registered: 8-2007 |
Hi all, Flying spares does not sell the 50000 series hubs, but it's not a big issue as I was going to renew the bearings and seals only, anyway. It's about 600 Euros all in all, and after 71.000 miles I am not going to complain. The front ones were renewed with the previous major service reported elsewhere in this Forum. They are hopefully in the post today. Best regards, Lluís | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 380 Registered: 8-2007 |
This is blooda brilliant... I just discovered that the bearings in #52020 are simply in perfect condition. Even a stetoscope at speed did not reveal any noise.... The bloody tires, with a full 10mm profile and less than 16 months are squared, hence the origine of the vibration and noise. Thanks to Flyingspares that is taking the bearings et al back at no cost. I am now fitting Michelins all around and dumping the new looking Nokians. Best regards, Lluís | ||
| Robert Noel Reddington Prolific User Username: bob_uk Post Number: 267 Registered: 5-2015 |
That's unusual for tyres to square off unless they have been locked on the brakes at high speed. I need tyres and have been looking a Continentals. Michelins are good tyres and original fitment on quite a few new cars. Fitting tyres is far easier than bearings especially if one is only watching. With a bit of luck the tyres will not be to much more than the bearings. And well done flying spares for refund. | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 381 Registered: 8-2007 |
Structural damage, not rubber erosion... so the metallic mesh collapsed. | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 384 Registered: 8-2007 |
update: New wheels complete cured the problem. I note cupped wheels or scalloped wheels seem to happen even on well aligned cars. They happen as an evil combination of suspension geometry, tire block size and tire pressure. My Nokia's were not even 20000 Km yet they went bad. Very happy so far with the Michelin Latitude so far. | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 335 Registered: 4-2012 |
Lluis that's great that you didn't have anything wrong with your wheel bearings. My Turbo R 60128 has Avon Turbo Steel fitted they are in good condition but somewhere down the line replacements will be needed I would be interested in hearing of any other makes and prices and pros and Cons thanks in advance. Richard. | ||
| Lluís Gimeno-Fabra Grand Master Username: lluís Post Number: 387 Registered: 8-2007 |
Hi Richard, My car has had so far Avons, Bridgestones, Nokians and Michelins. I disliked the Avons, impossible to get balanced properly. The Bridgestones were nice and lasted an incredible 45000 Km with good stable performance. These were 255/60. Nokians were good to start with and economical, but the lasted like 20.000 Km or so. The Michelins are so far incredible good, much better than the others in terms of noise, vibration and ride and they are pricey. I would go to Michelin or Bridgestone. For 255/55 R17 you can also look in Pirelli and Continental. The speed rating V is sufficient as they are all slightly overrated in terms of weight load (104 to 108). Does this help? Lluís | ||
| richard george yeaman Grand Master Username: richyrich Post Number: 336 Registered: 4-2012 |
Hi Lluis of course anything that helps us to enjoy our cars that little bit better is a help also there are a lot of owners who read these pages that all this information is also beneficial to them thank you. Richard. |
